Spain is the second most visited country in the world - after France. It has stunning natural landscapes, history going back thousands of years, spectacular architecture, beautiful cathedrals, diverse regions with their own cultures, traditions and cuisine, welcoming people, food and wine to die for, and great weather. Add to this, ease of travel and prevalence of English and you have to ask yourself - why wouldn't you want to visit Spain!
Central and Northern Spain, stretching from south of Madrid to the Atlantic coast, is dotted with Roman and medieval towns; all within an easy day's drive of each other. Starting in Madrid, David and I spent 3 weeks travelling by car in a rough figure 8: west to Cáceres, north to Santiago de Compostela, east to Oviedo, then south to Segovia and back to Madrid. We stayed in historic hotels, drove through stunning countryside and stepped back in time everywhere we went. David, who seems to spend half his life researching our travels, spent weeks on the internet putting together a faultless itinerary. So that you can skip the hard work I have described our itinerary in detail, giving you the highlights of each destination, where we stayed and what we did. If you have any questions, ask them in the comments sections and I will get back to you - hopefully with the answers.
Travel by car, rail, or take a tour.
Thanks to the European Union the road network in Spain is superb. The secondary roads are excellent and have very little traffic. Stick to them wherever you can and you'll get to see the countryside, rather than just speeding through it on the motorways.
Don't panic if you aren't a car person, Eurail has you covered - with trains to almost every destination on our itinerary, and if independent travel isn't your idea of fun head over to Viator or GetYourGuide for a comprehensive list of guided tours. Many of the towns we visited can be seen in a day trip from Madrid. Most of the tours have 24 hour cancellations - something I love because you never know what might happen when you are travelling. Check with each tour though because there are some which don't have this feature.
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Central and Northern Spain, stretching from south of Madrid to the Atlantic coast, is dotted with Roman and medieval towns; all within an easy day's drive of each other. Starting in Madrid, David and I spent 3 weeks travelling by car in a rough figure 8: west to Cáceres, north to Santiago de Compostela, east to Oviedo, then south to Segovia and back to Madrid. We stayed in historic hotels, drove through stunning countryside and stepped back in time everywhere we went. David, who seems to spend half his life researching our travels, spent weeks on the internet putting together a faultless itinerary. So that you can skip the hard work I have described our itinerary in detail, giving you the highlights of each destination, where we stayed and what we did. If you have any questions, ask them in the comments sections and I will get back to you - hopefully with the answers.
Our Spanish itinerary
- Aranjuez - 1 night
- Toledo - 3 nights
- Cáceres - 3 nights
- Salamanca - 3 nights
- Lugo - 2 nights
- Santiago - 4 nights
- Oviedo - 3 nights
- Segovia - 3 nights
Aranjuez
How many nights will you need?
Aranjuez is less than an hour from central Madrid by road or rail, making it absolutely do-able as a day trip from Madrid. We decided to take our time and spend the night there.
With a population less than 60,000, and quite a small town centre, you can easily see everything in a single day.
Where can you stay?
We stayed at the NH Collection Palacio de Aranjuez. It had a great location on Calle de San Antonio, opposite the Royal Palace of Aranjuez, and only a short walk from the town centre. Aranjuez railway station was about 15 minutes walk.
Our room, a suite with a view of the palace, was spacious and comfortable. The furnishings were pretty ordinary - all heavy, dark wood, and in need of a make-over. It wasn't the kind of room I would rush back to but was perfectly acceptable for a single night on a road trip.
NH Collection hotels are a mid-priced European chain with hotels dotted around Spain. We stayed in five altogether. If you are putting together a road trip, it is worth checking them out.
What is there to see?
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| The Royal Palace of Aranjuez |
- The Royal Palace of Aranjuez and gardens
Originally built in the 16th Century and substantially restored in the 18th Century the palace is, even today, a royal residence for the King and Queen.
It is open to the public from Tuesdays to Sundays 10 am to 6 or 7 pm depending on the time of year. Adult admission is 9 euros. Both Viator and GetYourGuide have a variety of tours. The guided tours tend to be in Spanish - be careful to check the language if you are looking for one in English.
I would love to say we did a tour, but I can't. We arrived the day before a royal visit, to find the interior firmly off limits. We were however able to wander the outside and through the gardens with hardly another tourist in sight. The next day we saw a military parade at the palace entrance.
The vast formal gardens are well worth spending an hour or so wandering about. There are fountains, statutes, woodlands, and flowers. At the far end is the Faluás Museum with a display of luxury royal feluccas.
- The Historic Quarter
If you have time, go for a walk along Calle Capitan Angosto Gomez Castrillon through the historic centre of town. Don't miss the Real Iglesia de San Antonio (Royal Church of St. Anthony) on Calle de San Antonio between Pl de la Florida and Calle de Andalucia. Continue on to the Av. Plaza de Toros for a look at the historic bullring.
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| Real Church of Saint Anthony, Aranjuez |
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Chinchón
Chinchón is all about its Plaza Mayor. Surrounded by three-storey buildings with wooden-arched balconies, it is well worth seeing. If you arrive at lunch time there is an abundance of restaurants with outdoor areas facing the square. If you have the courage to wind your way down through the narrow, steep streets from the elevated surroundings to the plaza at the bottom, you will find plenty of parking. Be warned though - if you are a nervous driver (or in my case, passenger) it is a heart-in-mouth journey, constantly wondering whether you will fit between the buildings. We drove down in a mid-sized car and got through, but I can't say I enjoyed a moment of it. David loved it. He is the one who always assumes we will get through any tight squeeze. I'm the pessimist, waiting for disaster to strike at every turn.
Most of the Spanish towns we travelled through, and Chinchón was no exception, have arrows directing the way into and out of town - follow the arrows and you'll arrive without too much grief.
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| I struggled to get a good photo of the Plaza Mayor - but this photo of one of the balconies summed up Chinchón's atmosphere perfectly. |
How many nights will you need?
At 61 km, about 50 minutes by car, from Madrid, Chinchón is an easy day trip. We backtracked when we left Aranjuez and saw it on our way to Toledo. There is no rail link with Madrid.
The town is easily doable in a single day with most of the sights in the central square.
What is there to see?
- Plaza Mayor
- The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción)
If you have the energy, or better yet a car, it is worth the 500m, uphill walk through the winding streets to see this Gothic style church. Construction commenced in 1537 and was finally completed in 1626. Photos of the interior are stunning. Sadly, we were unable to go inside. Look over the edge of the street wall opposite for a stunning view of the central town.
- For a brief description of other sights in Chinchón go to the town's official website.
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Toledo
When we were planning our first trip to Spain many years ago, my aunt told me not to miss Toledo. She said it was magical. Toledo didn't make it onto our itinerary then, but 30 years later we finally made it. She was right about the magic. Despite the ubiquitous souvenir shops - the narrow, winding streets, medieval architecture, and even the buzz of crowds of other tourists ensure this is a city not to be missed.
Built on a hill high above and partially encircled by the Tagus River, Toledo's beauty owes much to its geography. Whether you arrive by car, train or bus don't just wander the old city, make sure you get beyond the city walls and look back - only then can you appreciate Toledo's true magnificence.
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| Toledo by night taken from our hotel. |
How many nights will you need?
55 minutes by car from central Madrid, even quicker by train, Toledo is another place you can easily see in a day trip. Once you arrive, the old town is eminently walkable, in fact that is the only way you can see it. Most of the old town is closed to cars, except the odd delivery and service vehicle.
We stayed for three nights. Having arrived in the early afternoon of our first night this gave us time to spend a day and a half exploring the old town and then head into the countryside to see the windmills of La Mancha.
Parking:
If you have a car you will need to park in one of the car parks on the edge of the old centre. The closest is next to the Alcázar at Garage Alcázar. Their website has directions and a map. Make sure you plan your route for this because it is practically in the old town - not a place you want to end up going the wrong way down a narrow one-way street.
Accessing the old town:
High above the surrounding town, the old town centre is easy to reach on foot. Toledo has two giant escalators which make the ascent quick, easy and fun. Both are free to use. One is the Remonte Mecánico de Safont, on the north-east edge of the old town on the Ronda del Granadal and the other is the Escalera Mecánica del Parque Recaredo on the northern edge of the old town at Paseo de Recaredo (abreviated as P.º Recaredo). Both have parking nearby. We parked each day in an open air car park a short walk from the bottom of the Remonte Mecánico de Safont. This escalator takes you to Plaza de Zocodover which is a great place to begin your exploration of the town.
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Where can you stay?
For once, we opted not to stay in the old town itself - and that turned out to be a great decision. By far the best thing about Toledo is the view looking back to the old town from across the River Tagus - especially at night when the Alcázar and other main buildings are brilliantly lit. Scroll up to see the photo I took from our hotel window one evening.
We stayed at the AC Hotel Ciudad de Toledo, part of the Marriott chain. The room itself was pretty ordinary. However, the staff were pleasant and friendly, and the view from our room was stunning. Make sure you get a room with a view of the old town. Located on Ctra. Circunvalación, the AC Hotel Ciudad de Toledo is not well located for anything except its stunning view. I would not recommend staying there without a car. It is a 15 minute walk (uphill on the way back) to the nearest entrance through the town walls, across Puente San Martin. This takes you to the Jewish Quarter. While the Jewish Quarter is well worth seeing, it is about as far as you can get from most of the old town's main attractions. There are also very few restaurants near the hotel. We solved this, as we often do, by ordering room service from the in-house restaurant. Looking out across the Tagus to the view of the old town while we ate, was so much better than any restaurant, but if you like to walk to little eateries nearby when you travel then the AC Hotel de Ciudad is not for you.
What is there to see?
- The Plaza de Zocodover
If you enter the city via the Remonte Mecánico de Safont ( see my directions under 'Accessing the old town' above) you will arrive close to the Plaza de Zocodover. The plaza is a perfect place to pause and get your bearings; perhaps have a coffee or breakfast in one of the many cafes.
- The Cathedral - Catedral Primada de Toledo
Located on the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, Toledo's Cathedral is an absolute must see. Construction began in 1227 and finished at the end of the 1400s. The exterior towers over its surroundings in the brooding Gothic style of the times. You will need at least an hour to see it properly - it is huge. Like all the cathedrals we came across in Spain, you can't just wander in. You have to buy a ticket at Euros 12 or take a tour. You can purchase tickets online or just turn up as we did. The ticket window is in a building opposite the Cathedral entrance.
Don't miss the monstrance, a stunning 3m (10 feet) tall gilded silver vessel. In case you are wondering - I googled it for you - a monstrance is used to display sacramental bread.
The Chapel of the Sepulchre is also worth seeing if, like me you have a fascination for crypts. The chapel entrance is a small stairway, easily missed, leading from outside the presbytery.
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| The Monstrance of Arfe |
- The Alcázar
You cannot miss the Alcázar. It dominates Toledo's skyline in a way few buildings in the world do. Seen from our hotel window each evening it was utterly stunning. I confess we didn't go inside. Today the Alcazar is a military museum, and frankly I had enough military museums in our early travels to fill several lifetimes.
- The Jewish Quarter
During the Middle Ages, Toledo was home to Jews, Moors and Christians, all of whom put their archictectural and cultural mark on the city - one of the reasons it is so interesting to visit. The Jewish population flourished in the 12th Century before being expelled in 1492. The Jewish Quarter is on the far south western edge of the city and well worth walking to. It gets you away from the main tourist attractions around the Cathedral and gives you a chance to wander through less busy areas.
The Synagogue of El Transito is decorated inside with ornate Mujédar decorations.
The Windmills of La Mancha - Consuegra
45 minutes south-east of Toledo near the town of Consuegra you will find the Windmills of La Mancha. They stand in line, perched high on a hill, as if waiting for Don Quixote's return. With the Castle of Consuegra in the background, the windmills are something you don't want to miss.
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| Windmills of La Mancha |
We visited by car, on a day trip from Toledo. There is a small amount of parking, but we had no difficulty finding a spot. Without a car, you probably need to take a tour, this is not a place easily accessible by public transport.
There are 12 windmills altogether with some open to visitors. There is also a small souvenir shop in one. It has been beautifully restored and allows you to climb upstairs to see the windmill's mechanism and peak out through the upper windows.
The Castle of Consuegra is open year round, once you have had your fill of windmills.
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Cáceres
A UNESCO World Heritage listed site, the old town of Cáceres was first settled in Palaeolithic times. In 25 BC it thrived under the Romans. In the 10th Century the Almohades (a North African Muslim empire) rebuilt and enlarged the Roman ramparts, using the town as a refuge in their attacks against the Christians. Most of the town's significant buildings were completed in the 15th Century and renovated during the 16th Century.
Today you can see Roman, Moorish, Sephardic and Renaissance architecture all within easy walkable distances, and enclosed by medieval walls. It is hard to overstate what a treasure house Cáceres is.
In case the real past of the town doesn't tempt you, there is the added fun of spotting film locations. Scenes from both Game of Thrones and House of the Dragon were filmed in Cáceres, with the town appearing as King's Landing in Season 7 of Game of Thrones. Filming for Season Two of House of the Dragon had wrapped up only days before we arrived. Dirt still covered plaza tiles and a medieval collection of props was piled up against the stone wall of a square close to our hotel.
%20C%C3%A1ceres,%20Spain.jpg "David at the entrance to the old town of Cáceres") |
| David standing in front of the Arco de la Estrella - or to Games of Thrones fans - the Kings Landing steps |
How many nights will you need?
We stayed for three nights. Cáceres is small enough to see in a couple of days. By staying inside the old town we were able to walk out the front door of our hotel and explore on foot each day. It was a perfect location - except for the non-stop rain.
Parking:
If you stay in the old town you will need to leave your car outside the medieval walls and walk in, but it isn't far and you are very quickly walking through medieval streets. Try to avoid arriving during the siesta if you want the full flavour of the old town. During the siesta you are likely to experience nothing more than security shutters and emptiness.
Where can you stay?
We stayed at the NH Collection Cáceres Palacio de Oquendo, on the Plaza San Juan. With a wonderful medieval feel and a view from our window overlooking the plaza, this was my favourite of all the hotels we stayed in - a beautifully restored 16th Century stone palace which loses nothing in modern comforts for being steeped in Rennaisance history.
There is no onsite parking, however we were able to drive our car to the hotel to unload our bags then wind our way back through the narrow streets to the Párking Obispo Galarza, a large parking garage just outside the old town. From there it was a five minute walk back to the hotel.
What is there to see?
While 'just wander about and soak up the atmosphere' is great advice for any old town, in Cáceres you will be repaid a hundred fold by following your instincts from one plaza, alleyway, walkway and set of stone steps to the next. Plaza Mayor is a good place to start, then head through the Arco de la Estrella toward the Roman ruins of the Mayorlago Palace.
Things not to miss in your wandering are:
- Plaza Mayor
A large open square surrounded by fabulous stone buildings and numerous restaurants. Pick up a guide from the Tourism Office while you are there.
- Plaza de Santa Maria
This small plaza, a couple of minutes walk from Plaza Mayor through the Arco (Arch) de la Estrella is surrounded by beautiful buildings on all sides. Here you will find the Mayorlago Palace and the Cathedral of Santa Maria, both described below.
I confess that I am a Roman ruin addict. If there is evidence of the Roman empire anywhere in a town I will seek it out. We were cursed with awful weather for our entire stay in Cáceres. Anywhere out of the rain was attractive. That said, the Roman ruins at the Palacio de Mayoralgo are well worth a visit in any weather. In 2001 renovations to the palace uncovered the remains of a 1st Century Roman city including a Roman road, a house, thermal baths and a foundry.
Sadly, all the signs are in Spanish, so make sure you have Google translate on your phone so you can make use of the feature which allows you to take photos of signs and bring up a translation - it's the little camera icon in the bottom righthand corner. We got lucky and struck up a conversation with a young Dutch couple who, as is always the case with the Dutch, had impressive language skills and translated the gist of the signs for us. Since it was absolutely pouring rain outside, none of us were in a particular hurry.
Note: For probably the most impressive Roman ruin we have ever seen scroll down to 'Segovia' in this post
The Mayoralgo family (then named the Blázquez family) was granted the land on which the palace was built in 1229. Remarkably, members of the family lived there until 2001. The building is beautiful from the outside. Don't miss the impressive Coat of Arms on the main facade.
A co-catheral or concathedral is exactly what it sounds like - a cathedral which shares the role of bishop's seat with another cathedral. Once inside you can't miss the magnificent wooden alterpiece which dates to the mid-16th century.
The Palacio or 'Palace of the Lower Golfines' is a 15th Century fortified house. Today it is a museum with period furniture, tapestries, religious reiquaries and historical weapons and other artifacts. You have to take a guided tour in order to visit.
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Trujillo
Half an hour by car from Cáceres and well-worth a day trip, is the old town of Trujillo. Framed by late Medieval buildings, Trujillo's Plaza Mayor is one of the loveliest we came across. Don't miss the castle with its heavily fortified walls and expansive views. First fortified by the Moors in the 9th Century the castle is another Game of Thrones and House of the Dragon location, appearing in Season 7 as Casterly Rock, the ancestral home of the Lannisters. Even if you are not a Game of Thrones fan, the castle has enough brooding medieval atmosphere to fill your visit.
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| Trujillo - old town |
Salamanca
From Cáceres we turned north for the two hour drive to the stunning UNESCO World Heritage old town of Salamanca. Our guide book, Michelin's Green Guide to Spain describes Salamanca's main square as the 'most magnificent main square in Spain'. It is hard to disagree.
Salamanca's history stretches back to the Iron Age, before it was successively ruled by Carthage, Rome, the Visigoths and the Moors. In the 11th Century Salamanca was conquered by Christrian forces and became a significant frontier city of the Reconquista. The Reconquista was the 800 year long battle by Catholic forces to reclaim the Iberian Peninsula from Muslim rule.
In 1218 Salamanca became a centre for study and today it has a renowned university, bringing the vibrancy of a young population to its ancient architecture.
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| Salamanca's main square |
How many nights will you need?
We stayed for three nights. Over many decades of travel together we have found three nights to be the perfect time frame whenever we aren't sure of how long to stay somewhere. If you have a passion for slow travel, Salamanca is a place where you could stay longer and not run out of things to do.
Where can you stay?
We stayed at yet another NH Collection Hotel - The Salamanca Palacio de Castellanos. The Palacio de Castellanos is located just far enough inside the old town that we were within easy walk (7 minutes) of the Plaza Mayor but not so central that we had heart failure driving up to it. Like all the old town hotels we stayed in, the trick is to follow the driving directions on the hotel website. By doing this you avoid the one-way streets and alleyways which can have a disconcerting habit of narrowing further and further until you can barely get through.
Once we arrived at the hotel, and we came and went by car a couple of times, there was always a valet available to park our car out the back or underground. The car park is on site with cars parked in every available space leaving literally centimetres to spare.
The Salamanca Palacio de Castellanos was once part of a 15th Century palace. The foyer is lovely with its distinctive columns and arches. Sadly, the charm didn't extend to our room which was on the wrong end of ordinary. We stayed in a Junior Suite Duplex, which turned out to be a mistake. David likes plenty of space and I am sure that is why he chose this room. However, being on two levels never seems to work in hotel rooms. The living room felt dark and subterranean and the bedroom upstairs wasn't much better. Most of the floor space seemed to be swalled up by the stairs. My recommendation is to opt for a smaller room on a single level.
If anyone ever stays there, keep an eye out for a stray 'Tile'. We clearly left one somewhere in the room because it kept blinking its location on my phone for months afterwards!
What is there to see
Like all of Spain's medieval towns, Salamanca rewards wandering. Head for the Plaza Mayor then follow your instincts through the narrow streets and alleyways branching off on all sides.
Don't miss -
- The Plaza Mayor
All of the old town's major streets, and a good number of its alleyways and lanes converge on the Plaza Mayor, making it a great place to begin and end your exploration.
The Plaza Mayor was built between 1729 and 1755 by Philip V. The square is surrounded on all sides by ground level arcades with rounded arches supporting magnificent balustrated buildings rising for three storeys above. There is no shortage of tourist cafes. It is well worth stopping, having a coffee or lunch, and just soaking in the atmosphere.
Technically Salamanca has two cathedrals, the New Cathedral and the Old Cathedral. Although built side by side and with internal access from one to the other, they couldn't be more different in style. As a tourist you enter the New Cathedral first. Look for the entrance to the Old Cathedral in the first bay off the south aisle.
The Romanesque style Old Cathedral was built in the 12th Century and the Gothic style New Cathedral was begun in 1513 with additions continuing until the 18 Century. The juxtaposition of one with the other is a reason on its own to visit. The New Cathedral is stunning inside - one of the most magnificent we have visited in all our travels.
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| Ceiling decoration in Salamanca Cathedral |
- Puente Romano (Roman Bridge)
Salamanca's Roman Bridge was probably built in the 1st Century, at the time of the Emperor Trajan. With its captivating stone arches, it is well worth the 20 minute walk from Plaza Major, especially if like me, you are fascinated by all things Roman. The bridge has been restored many times over the centuries leaving archeologists to untangle the puzzle of which parts are original. Fifteen of the arches date from Roman times.
- Storks
According to Google, there are over 50,000 pairs of storks in Spain. Having adapted to urban areas, they nest on rooftops, church towers and anything else built up high. There seemed to be a large population in Salamanca. I only had to cross the road from our hotel to see several nests on top of the bell tower of the Convento de San Esteban. We were lucky enough to see more than one nest with juvenile storks in them.
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Lugo
Three and a half hours northwest of Salamanca, our next stop was Lugo. Lugo was the capital of Roman Gallaecia. As the Romans were wont to do they built all sorts of fascinating structures which have lasted down through the millennia. If you have even a passing interest in Roman ruins, Lugo is a must see town. The old town has an almost perfect encirclement of Roman walls, an old Roman bridge, a set of Roman baths and a great medieval feel.
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| Statues of Caesar Augustus and Fabius Maximus Paulo in Lugo's main square. |
How many nights will you need?
Lugo is compact enough to see in a day. You will only need two nights.
Where can you stay?
We stayed at the Mercure Lugo Centro. It was clean and modern, although the room was quite small. There is parking on site as well as a bar and cafe. The hotel is outside the old town walls but close enough for an easy walk - about 15 minutes. One word of warning - we have found over the years that Mercure's are not always maintained to a standard you might hope for, so if you are reading this blog too many years down the track you might want to check a few reviews before you book.
What is there to see?
- The Roman Walls
Lugo has some of the best town walls we have seen. Built in the 3rd Century they encircle the old town in a continuous 2 km (1.2mi) perimeter. There are 10 gateways enabling visitors to access the walls and walk their entire length. There is no charge. Don't miss walking the walls and looking down into the Old Town with its ever-changing neighbourhoods.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lugo Cathedral was built in 1129 in the Romanesque style then remodelled in the 14th and 18th Centuries. Inside you will see beautiful chapels, stained glass windows, altarpieces and stonework. You can't miss the dramatic carved walnut choir stalls.
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| The main altar of Lugo Cathedral |
- The Plaza Mayor (Praza Maior)
The Plaza Mayor is a great place to begin exploring the old town and take a moment to reflect before throwing yourselves in o the narrow streets and alleyways. If you pass through the town walls from any of the southern gates you will be quite close to the plaza. The square is guarded by two impressive statues of Caesar Augustus, a Roman emperor and Fabius Maximus Paulo, a Roman senator - a reminder that Lugo was founded by the Romans.
The Domus, or Roman House, dates to the 2nd and 3rd Centuries. The Mithraeum, a temple to the God Mithra is on the first floor. Visiting the Domus was a 'holiday fail' for us. We tried to find the entrance several times and couldn't locate it despite Google maps and what we thought was a clear idea of where it was. Leave me a comment if you manage to find it!
- Piscina Romano
The Piscina Romano (literally translated as 'Roman Pool') dates from the 4th Century. There is some doubt about its purpose, whether it was part of a paleochristian baptisery or a thermal bath in a small household. Either way it is easy to find, just off the Plaza de Santa Maria near the Plaza Mayor.
- Roman Bridge
The Ponte Vella de Lugo spans the Miño River. A pedestrian only bridge it is about 25 minutes walk from the Plaza Mayor.
- Symbols marking the Camino de Santiago
In Lugo we began to see golden shell symbols on the pavements, and signs by the side of the road. These mark the way of the Camino de Santiago which I describe under the heading of Santiago de Compostela further down. The Camino Primitivo ('Original Way') also passes through Lugo.
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Santiago de Compostela
Saint James was one of the 12 Apostles. He travelled to Spain to convert the inhabitants to christianity, then returned to Judaea where he was beheaded, becoming the first apostle to be martyred. His disciples took his body to Spain where it is believed to be buried in the Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela. Legend has it that hundreds of years later, in 844 A.D, St James appeared on a battlefield leading a victory against the Moors. He officially became the patron saint of Spain in 1630.
Today Santiago de Compostela is best known as the end of the journey for pilgrams and others travelling the Camino de Santiago ('Way of St James'). The Camino de Santiago was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during the Middles Ages. It is made up of a number of walking paths which begin in different countries in Europe and North Africa, and converge on Santiago. The first official guide book to the camino, the Codex Calixtinus, was published in 1140. Today hundreds of thousands of travellers walk, cycle or ride the camino each year.
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| Santiago de Compostela Cathedral |
How many nights will you need?
It is worth giving yourself plenty of time in Santiago. This is a town where you are going to want to soak up the atmosphere. We stayed for four nights, including one day where we went for a drive. If you are pushed for time then you could see everything in two days.
Where can you stay?
We stayed at the NH Collection Santiago de Compostela. NH Collection is on Avenue do Burgo das Nacións, outside the old town. The walk from the hotel to the Cathedral, just inside the old town walls, is about 17 minutes, through a park and quiet back streets. We chose to stay here because of the ease of parking our car. Don't be put off by the brutalist architecture of the exterior. The interior is pleasant, although like almost every hotel we stayed in in Spain, the rooms were sombre, and frankly, a bit depressing. The staff were lovely, especially when I tried practising my awful Spanish on them.
If you want a more central hotel with 5-star luxury, the Santiago de Compostela Parador looked stunning. Located in the Plaza del Obradoiro, the plaza facing the cathedral, the Parador is said to be the oldest hotel in Spain. I admit to a bit of hotel envy when I saw it. We had a lovely lunch there on the terrace one afternoon.
What is there to see?
- The Cathedral and the Plaza del Obradoiro
The cathedral dates from the 11C to the 13C. With its imposing Baroque facade completed in 1750, it is worth taking your time in the plaza to take in the magnificent exterior before rushing inside. The plaza is also a great place to pause - and people watch. This is where the Camino travellers gather at the end of their treks - some alone, some in groups, some exhaused and others exuberant. You can spend a very pleasant half hour or so just sitting and watching them.
Once inside, don't miss the crypt where the relics of St James and two of his disciples are kept.
The Botafumeiro, a large incense burner, is swung in the cathedral on certain days. It hangs from the ceiling, weighs 53 kg and takes 8 men to operate. For a list of dates see the link on the Cathedral's official website. Be prepared for crowds if you want to witness the event.
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| A modern day pilgrim at the end of his journey. The shells are a symbol of the Camino de Santiago. |
- The Old Town
The Old Town streets are a narrow, winding maze of bustling activity. They are lined with shops, cafes and restaurants. The further you venture away from the Cathedral the more authentic the atmosphere becomes. The Old Town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985
- Alameda Park
When you have had your fill of the Old Town, head to Alameda Park where, only 10 minutes walk from the Cathedral, you will find Santiago's most iconic greenspace.
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Oviedo
In 834, upon hearing of the discovery of the tomb of St James, King Alfonso II walked from Oviedo to Sanitago de Compostela. Thus fixing Oviedo's place in history as the original starting point for the Camino de Santiago.
The coastal towns of the Asturias coast are picturesque and charming, although the streets are frighteningly narrow in a car. If you have the time the coast is well worth an excursion.
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| Vendedoras del Fontán (Sellers of the Fontán) - Fontán is a nearby market. |
How many nights will you need
The old town of Oviedo is quite compact. We stayed for three nights which was plenty and included a full day to visit the ancient rock art centre at Tito Bustillo Cave. Visiting Tito Bustillo Cave was the main reason we went to Oviedo. If I were to chose one destination to delete from our itinerary, this would be it.
Where can you stay?
We stayed at yet another NH Collection Hotel - the NH Oviedo Principado. Unimpressive on the outside, the hotel was clean, comfortable, and very well located for exploring the old quarter of the city by foot.
What is there to see?
- The ancient rock art of Tito Bustillo Cave
Just under an hour east of Oviedo is the Rock Art Center of Tito Bustillo. Tito Bustillo Cave has well-preserved Palaeolithic rock art. The cave is open to visitors from early March to late October. Visitor numbers are limited so it is worth booking online.
The tours are conducted in Spanish, which is a bigger drawback than it sounds. Over the years we have done the occasional foreign language tour with varying results rangin from disastrous to not bad. This tour was closer to the disastrous end of the spectrum. What we didn't appreciate was that most of the tour was conducted in the dark. The tour guide had a torch, with which he occasionally, briefly, illuminated the cave paintings, but most of the time he was simply talking - so if you enjoy standing around in the dark listening to someone go on and on in a language you don't understand this is the tour for you. If not, I wouldn't bother.
The Cave Art Center with visual displays of the rock art and audioguides telling the history of the cave is worth a visit but has nowhere near the impact of seeing the original cave drawings.
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| Palaeolithic Art - Tito Bustillo Cave. Note: I took this photograph in the museum, not the actual cave. |
Santa Iglesia Catedral San Salvador de Oviedo was the original starting place of the Camino de Santiago and worth a visit for that reason alone.
- The architecture
There are five pre-Romanesque UNESCO World Heritage Sites within easy reach of the city. See the link for descriptions and directions.
- Statutes and Sculptures
Wander the city's streets and you are bound to come across a bronze sculpture, and then another and another. Mostly of people, but sometimes animals, the sculptures are everywhere. A few are in San Francisco Park, so if you are pressed for time look for them there.
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Segovia
Segovia may be last on my list of towns, but it is definitely not least. Segovia was my favourite. If you are interested in Roman ruins then don't miss it. The aqueduct, stunningly located at the entrance to the old town is superb.
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| Segovia's Roman Aqueduct - taken from the tops of the stairs at Postigo Del Consuelo |
How many nights will you need?
We stayed for three nights, enough time to wander the old town, take a zillion photos of the aqueduct and catch a great view of a local religious parade from the balcony of our holiday apartment.
Madrid is about an hour away, by either car or train, making Segovia another town which can easily be seen in a day trip from the capital.
Where can you stay?
We stayed in a holiday apartment in the old town, opposite the Plaza Medina del Campo. David booked it through Real Segovia Apartments. Don't be fooled by the website, perhaps some of their apartments look like the ones in the photos but ours was much more down market. It was however, clean and basically comfortable. The Juliet balcony overlooked a busy pedestrian thoroughfare and gave us a great feel for life in the old town. It was perfectly located for exploring the town on foot. There was no parking, so we had to park our car in one of the huge underground carparks at the entrance to the old town and pull them the few hundred metres across the cobblestone streets to check-in.
What is there to see?
- The aqueduct
The roman aqueduct dates to about 50 A.D. Beautifully preserved, with two tiers of arches and a stunning location framing the entrance to the old town, it is the most impressive Roman aqueduct we have ever seen. If there was nothing else in Segovia it would be worth visiting just for this. Don't miss the view from above, at Postigo Del Consuelo.
- The old town
We spent much of our time wandering the streets of the old town, just soaking up the atmosphere. We were lucky enough to be in Segovia for the Corpus Christi procession in early June. We watched the beginning of the procession at the Cathedral then saw it again from the balcony of our apartment.
The Alcázar, or Fortress, is worth visiting for its spectuacular views. Perched on the edge of a cliff it's towers are said to have been the inspiration for Disney's Snow White's castle. If you have the time, it is well worth a visit.
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| The Alcazar at Segovia |
Dating from the 16th Century, the cathedral towers above its surrounds in an impressive display of late-Gothic architecture. Admission includes entrance to the Episcopal Palace, once the residence of Segovia's bishops.
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